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749 Possibly Thinking Of Selling 749.

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by DoctorW, Oct 18, 2017.

  1. I'm very torn on this - my gloss black, 2006 @ 18.5k mint 749 is totally sorted, carbon everything (pretty much), levers, screen, mirrors, full r& IMAG0793.jpg IMAG0788.jpg IMAG0793.jpg IMAG0788.jpg g's, hugger, rear sets, full termi, translogic quick shifter, qr filler cap, new tyres etc...but, it is starting to make me ache somewhat after riding!!
    So, an inkling is in my mind to sell, although after all the effort (and cost) of getting the bike as is, it's not an easy decision to make. Pics added to help - any ideas of what a fair price would be?
     
  2. Can't you just lose the rear sets, buy a Sergeant seat and a set of bar risers?
     
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  3. Nice looking bike! Can't help you with the price but if you've got the original bits I'd deffo take the termi system and QS off and sell those separately - that banana system is getting harder to find now
     
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  4. @900streetfighter just bought a new 999 and was saying how less comfortable it was without a few mods.
     
  5. Last year i had to sell my 749s due to my spinal recovery, believe me when i say i seriously regret the decision:worried:
    ive moved to a CB1000r and it has no soul at all, think before you jump...... and if the soul of a Duc is what made you buy it in the first place then i advise you to stick to a twin or a v4,
     
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  6. I find the factory setting of the bar angle too angled-back towards the fuel tank, kinda forcing my wrists into some weird angle, try dropping the bars out of their locating holes on the top clamp and moving them wider and more towards the front of the bike - making a flatter angle.
     
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  7. Better seat and slightly higher bars might be a good plan. Poss get the ride softened slightly without making it "squishy". Good thinking chaps - feeling better about the bike already lol.
     
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  8. Thx for swift replies and some good advice / warnings. Was looking at zzr1400 (i do like them), but love my 749 other than the pain. Looks like some further sensible mods may be the best (and cheaper, if not cheap) way to go?!
     
  9. A mate with back injuries fitted LSL riser bars and hasn't looked back, they're pricey though but there are much cheaper options available.

    Before you go softening the ride try the basic ergonomics first (bars and peg position), then ensure you have the correct sag settings - these will provide the most comfortable ride, softening stuff up will often cause a more uncomfortable bike as it will be bouncing and pitching around more, possibly causing you to physically react more in small amounts all the time. Damping is also important to comfort, especially rebound IMO.
     
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  10. I have cyclecat raised clipons. Std footrests at low front position and grippy seat cover on my bike. I also have plates to lower footrests on shelf ready for when arthritis or knee probs rear their ugly head.
     
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  11. Thx - all makes sense!! God i really need to think things through a bit more!! The ride is a bit harsh - previous owner (5 years ago lol) prob had an extra 5 or so stone on me (I'm about 11 stone), so assuming it was set up for him, what would i be looking to adjust to better suit me?
     
  12. Check what its set at now and compare to factory settings will give you an idea as to where it is now.
    Then maybe back off comp/rebound equally. Front and rear sag (preload) can be set up with or without rider but with is best if not average weight.
     
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  13. First off get some lazy bastard off the settee to help you, then pull the bike over on its sidestand (assuming you don't have a carbon fibre one with unknown load rating) so that the front wheel is off the ground completely, get the lazy bastard you found on the settee to put a cable tie around the fork leg (on the slider tube itself - the thinner tube) directly under the fork seal.

    Gently lower the bike back to the ground and bring the bike to the upright position and gently get on the bike.

    Get your assistant to hold the bike either side of the nose cone fairing, without pushing down, then when they have the bike stable, put your feet on the footpegs and get into a racing crouch, making sure your full weight is supported by the bike.

    Put the bike gently back on its sidestand and again pull the front wheel off the ground by bringing the bike's weight back onto the side stand.

    Get assistant to measure the gap between the oil seal and the cable tie, this is your front rider sag.

    If you are wearing your riding gear the number should be between 40mm-60mm.

    Your front suspension travel is 120mm, on a road bike you want around 35%-50% of the available travel (120mm) taken up by rider sag, this puts the suspension approx in the centre of its working range, which will make the suspension its most efficient.

    These bikes don't require much rear sag at all. Stick a bit of tape on the side of the rear seat unit in the same vertical axis as the rear axle, make a pen mark on the tape, point at the mark whilst looking at to your assistant.

    Get assistant to measure up from the swingarm above the axle (or from the axle itself) to the mark on your tape.

    Get another assistant or use a wall to hold the front of the bike while you get on the bike and get your feet on the pegs, take the measurement to the tape again with you sitting on the bike with your feet on the pegs.

    This is your rear rider sag.

    This measurement wants to be between 10mm and 15mm.

    That's a good starting point with these bikes.

    If your assistant doesn't have tits then the whole process should be fairly painless and not involve any arguments, good luck.
     
    #15 Air Duck, Oct 18, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2017
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  14. Have to say, I have had both my 748 and 999 set up for me (12 stone) by Rich Llewelyn, both are set up for road use and both are set up much softer than I expected or would have done myself. Both bikes handling was transformed, the suspension takes out the bumps and allows the wheels to follow the road without bounce or wallowing. The lesson for me is the front end and back need to be at the soft end for road use with carefully set up damping and rebound, I always set them up firm and fast previously which was ok for perfect roads. If you are only 11 stone the front preload should be close to 25mm and the rear close to the top with not much thread showing over the lock rings.
     
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  15. Or there’s the new Supersport which looks amazing. More than 749 power with less extreme ergonomics. But every inch a Ducati. I’m going to test ride one this weekend (just to accompany a friend who may well buy).
     
  16. I sold my 2006 749 last year, I didn't ride it that much but when I did I always swore I would take it out more. it made me smile and the garage seems an emptier place without it, it was A work of art. I miss it, though the Scrambler is a hoot.
     
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  17. Sorry that's wrong, you should be looking at between 30mm-45mm on this bike, don't use near 50% (of the 120mm) as you'll likely bottom out often on bumpy roads.

    Be interesting if you could do a mini write up mate, I've not tried the new Supersport but have a lot of road and track miles on both the carby and injected older models, be interesting to see if you think it cuts it as a sports bike.

    Reason I'm in favour of the OP sorting his bike instead of selling it is because a well set up xx9 is still good for both road and track, they don't go for much money (he won't raise a lot from it) and they're looking more cool/unusual as time goes by.

    But I've no idea on the OP's circumstances, wants, or needs!
     
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  18. I'll take some pics of where the adjusters / ring marks etc are on the top of the forks - when i get on the bike it (certainly feels anyway) that my weight bearing compresses the bike at all! Been like it for 5 years, but the bumpy ride is starting to do me in lol.
     
    #20 DoctorW, Oct 18, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2017
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