Icon Rear Wheel Creaking & Clunking

Or as they say in Ireland when referring to the Brexit vote,"clowns to the left of me, jokers to the right, here Eire am stuck in the middle with you".

 

Good that it’s sorted, and that it didn’t happen on a motorway, thanks for reporting back it’s potentially going to help someone else.
You never know there may be a forum member in the area that can give you a lift? (I’m in Derby so it’s not me).

 

The thing is with bearings they are produced in the tens of thousands so occasionally things go wrong, like the lubing machine misses one, or a whole batch, or one of the machining processes has a hiccup, for once this isn’t Ducati’s fault, btw if you ever need to replace a bearing out of warranty don’t buy from the bike or car manufacturer, take the bearing to a specialist bearing supplier (or give them the part number from the bearing) and you’ll get the identical item or better quality for a tenth of the cost.

 

#111 saying he couldn’t find the identical bearings, yes I guess occasionally your forced to buy OEM , and you do need to be sure it’s the correct part number of course,?I know in my CB750 engine there’s one bearing that is unique to Honda, basically because they buy a bearing in and then machine a circlip slot in it, but there are far more instances where the bearings can be bought without having to pay the Ducati premium, not all bearings I agree but most, if I remember correctly Honda wanted £50 for my 400/4 wheel bearings, I got them from BTP bearings, SKF items for £12.

 

The rear wheel being seriously overtorqued could have caused it - but seriously over torqued to break a wheel bearing...

You will never find out....

 

Hmm, possibly. When you tighten a wheel spindle nut all you are doing is pressing solid metal against more solid metal. It does not apply any side loading to the bearings themselves. Unless the spacer between the bearings collapsed...

 

I mean tighten so much you crack the hardened race... I have seen it before on machines - but it takes huge force...the spacers are always short (0.05mm or so - not sure of exact number) to provide some preload to the bearings then as you say they go solid to the spacers - but keep tightening and the compression force can crack a race... but its not common.

Personally - not sure based on the reply it was a bearing... maybe just the tight chain... but you will never know for sure...

 

Webbo, just wanted to say thanks for posting this. I own an 899 and my bike has been making this noise for over 2 years. I took it to two different shops, both told me the noise was “normal” and was caused by the chain. I also showed the bike to my dad and my father in law (they have a combined mechanic experience of 60 years)... they said it was normal. So I just accepted that it was indeed a normal noise. But the noise slowly got louder. And then I found your post which suggested I was probably right all along and that the wheel bearing was the problem. I took the bike back to one of those same shops and told them I wanted the bearings replaced. They thought I was wasting my money... that is until they called me and they confirmed the bearings were bad and that they had also destroyed the seals. Who knows what may have happened on the road without this post. Thanks!

 

If the chain is too tight it will put stress on the bearings (as well as absorb power and stop the swing arm from moving). If it's too tight for too long then bearing failure will result.

Always err on the side of slack for chains. I always remember the old anecdote that most chains break at the TT at Ballough Bridge where the landing compresses the suspension and snaps a tight chain.

TB

 

Blimey that’s an old post to disagree with Hamilton!, I’m interested to know why you disagree though?

 

Hi
My 2015 icon is doing a similar noise

Any chance somebody can point out how to change the rear wheel bearings please?
Do they just easily come off and get replaced or they need preying out?

Thanks

 

YouTube is your friend, there may be minor differences but this applies to most bikes.

 

It's a tight spot on the chain, not uncommon & they have adjusted the chain without taking that into account.
The creaking occours when the chain is in a certain position.

If you feel the slack in the chain when it's making that noise it will be very tight. Turn the wheel to a position when it doesn't make that noise & there will be free play in the chain.

 

I wish I could thank myself on this thread (see second post).