Threaded Sump Plug

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by freshage, May 15, 2025.

  1. Hi @freshage , are you talking about the M12x1.5 deep sump oil plug?
    I believe the limit was 22Nm maximum torque. Do you know at what torque that you applied causing the thread to be broken?
     
  2. More than 22Nm, that's for sure. I checked the torque wrench after stripping the sump on a bolt with a much higher torque value and it didn't click when I'd have expected it to click out at 18Nm.

    With most, I'll set my torque wrenches to -5% and tighten by hand/one last push on the torque wrench which has served me well for years. But this time, I put all my faith into the wrench which is the lesson I've learnt.

    Do your own quality check and calibrate torque wrenches, I will be from now on before any real world use.

    EDIT: I will note that I didn't feel as though the resistence got close to 20Nm before it threaded, and I've had a number of mechanical problems following visits to my main dealer (no longer using them). The last time I touched the sump was pre-desmo service. I then did an oil service after a trip post desmo service which is where the sump threaded out. So it could have been me, could have been the workshop. But for sure, the torque wrench I'm using is faulty.
     
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  3. Sorry to hear that, hope you can sort it without any more pain. When I first changed the oil on my monster 1100 after consulting the workshop manual I set the torque wrench to 42nm! As I tightened it it clearly didn't feel quite right to me and stopped. After consulting the manual again I discovered in the table of torque settings that it should be 22nm! I later found out the official workshop manual which I was using had a misprint in it so sounds like I had a lucky escape! Anyway good luck with that plug.
     
  4. Is it a solid threaded insert or a wire coil like a helicoil type insert?
    If it’s a helicoil type (wire coil) there may well be a little hooked section which engages on the fitting tool. This needs breaking off once it’s installed. Generally needs a short sharp tap with a pin punch and hammer. I strongly recommend you retrieve the snapped off hook with a magnet or such. Obviously make sure the insert is “just” sub flush with the sealing surface of the cases.
    Good luck.
     
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  5. My helicoil kits have a magnetic punch included for removing the tang
     
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  6. This is one of the reasons I went with E-Z lok rather than Helicoil. I wanted a solid insert (which also comes with perm fixing loctite on the outside threads.
     
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  7. Pretty much the same as what I used on my spark plug hole.
     
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  8. I like how it comes with 10 inserts. Not like I can try again if I screw up the first time :D
     
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  9. It's really easy to check and calibrate a torque wrench, in the vice with a known weight on a piece of string. I'm sure there will be a YouTube video out there. :upyeah:
     
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  10. Now I know not to rely on any included QC charts, and indeed I'll be testing/calibrating the set soon. Sound advice.
     
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  11. Update - The kit arrived, I measured incorrectly, the 1.75 pitch is incorrect for the OEM sump.

    I've got two options, install the insert kit and find a slightly larger suitable sump plug, or order a new kit and wait, so I can use OEM.

    My third option that I'm going with - I think at this point, having not even gone for a tour in over a year due to none stop issues creeping up, it's time to throw the towel in and just sell the fucking thing. I just don't have the time and with each small problem taking me months, I'm actively wasting said time.
     
  12. I get your frustration. You're going to fix it to sell it I presume. Do that, have a ride or two and then make up your mind.
     
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